Least expensive way to build a small block chevy longblock?

Not that I'm going to do this any time soon, but I was wondering what the best way to do this was?

Would going to a machine shop be the least expensive way of doing this?

So far, this is the least expensive build that I could come up with (using all new parts).

COMP Cams CL12-268-4 $199.95
Clevite Engine Parts 2800B4 - Clevite Assembly Lube $59.95
ATK High Performance Chevy 350 Street Performer Short Block: $1,299.00
Loctite 40505 - Loctite RTV Gray Silicone Gasket Maker Power Can: $17.99
Melling 10551 - Melling High-Volume Oil Pumps: $79.95
PROMAXX Performance 2169 - Cylinder Heads: $843.00
Sealed Power Z1235M - Sealed Power Cam Bearings $18.95
Sealed Power Z2601000 - Sealed Power Gasket Set: $37.95
Permatex 82180 - Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone: $5.99
Comp Muscle Car 10W-30 oil 1594 Summit Racing 39.75
ARP head bolts 134-3701 Summit Racing $84.28
Fel-Pro align bore main seal 2909 Summit Racing 23.95
Fel-Pro 1-pc pan gasket 1880 Summit Racing 40.95
Professional Products balancer, 6.75 80000 Summit Racing 54.95
Melling 55-S1 - Melling Oil Pump Screen Assemblies Summit Racing $7.95
Sealed Power brass freeze plug Z381 Summit Racing 18.95
VHT Chevy orange paint DE1620 Summit Racing 6.95


Part Total $2,842.35

This was the least expensive build I could come up with without getting used parts. Obviously, if I use Vortec heads from a junkyard and had them machined I could get it a bit cheaper though.

Anyone have a less expensive longblock build?

Stock 350 plus a ebay t76, holley double pumper w/ hanger 18 mods, msd btm 6al, ebay waste gate, stock manifolds, diy hot side, and a few misc parts roughly $1500 for 550+hp.
http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/305001-How-long-till-it-grenades-(-It-never-did!-Go-figure-)-Grenade-part-2-to-come?highlight=grenade

Whoa, long thread. I'm guessing lots of welding required?

As far as forced induction goes, I did look into turbo's, but it seems that a lot of fab work is required. I know of some people using the ebay turbo's and turbo manifolds, and then building their own system around it, but I couldn't find any ready-made kits that work well, other than the old banks system which I don't think is made anymore, and the complete ebay kits, which I hear are not truly direct fit.

Problem is that I never learned how to weld and don't own a welder, otherwise if/when I have the money that's what I would do.

I'd just make my own system if I could.

I also looked into nitrous since it's cheap and easy. Seems that with a good fuel pump and forged pistons, some people have been getting away with a 200 shot.

Then again, I guess a system could be set up with plastic/rubber couplings used as bends just for mockup, and then when mockup is perfect and everything fits and is ready to be set up with metal bends, it could be taken to an exhaust shop to be welded up.....

hmm...

But then there's always a risk of them screwing up.

TonySS wrote:Whoa, long thread. I'm guessing lots of welding required?

As far as forced induction goes, I did look into turbo's, but it seems that a lot of fab work is required. I know of some people using the ebay turbo's and turbo manifolds, and then building their own system around it, but I couldn't find any ready-made kits that work well, other than the old banks system which I don't think is made anymore, and the complete ebay kits, which I hear are not truly direct fit.

Problem is that I never learned how to weld and don't own a welder, otherwise if/when I have the money that's what I would do.

I'd just make my own system if I could.

I also looked into nitrous since it's cheap and easy. Seems that with a good fuel pump and forged pistons, some people have been getting away with a 200 shot.

Yes a lot of fab work is required for a diy setup, I would also say most kits are not true bolt in. Nitrous gets expensive after a while and its not always on tap like boost when on the street. A paxton supercharger or a baby blower would be an easy way to make an easy extra 100hp. And remember babies get the bottle, men get blown

I'll definitely have to read through that thread you posted later on. And yea, after constantly using nitrous it'd be a bit expensive. But turbo setups are not easy to do. I do kind of have an idea on how to do it though, but I just feel it'll be expensive in the end. Then again, there's a ton of room in my engine bay now, except for near the AC box, so I could probably set something up with a bunch of tubing ordered online and a blow through carb.

And yea, I looked into superchargers too. But they are so freaking expensive, and if you ever want to change something, or get more power, you have to upgrade the whole system. With a turbo you just change the turbo and leave the rest the same, or with juice you just change the jets and such.

Ugh, after a little bit of reading, building a good turbo setup seems like so much work, and expensive .

I'm not a fan of superchargers, but a mini 142 or 144 would be much easier and less expensive.

And you'll hate me for saying this, but with the above options, I'd still rather use nitrous on an engine, at least until a good easy to put together turbo setup is available.

A supercharger would not come out cheaper then a turbo set up believe me that's what mostly made my decision, dont know about for chevys but the 174 which is about the same as the one you listed but for a sbf is 2500 just for the blower and you'd still need about $400-$600 more for stuff to keep you from blowing the engine up. Mine came in at about $2200 but it is like you said way more labor intensive. All I got to say is nitrous is only good for spooling big effin turbos imho.

The labor intensive part is what scares me. Generally speaking, You know my skill level, so you should know that welding up a complete custom system is out of my league.

And actually, the 142/144 includes everything as a kit. for 2200 it comes with the manifolds bolt, and a bunch of other stuff.


I also found a place that sells shortblocks with powdered rods and forged pistons for about $1300 and. I can get a set of good aluminum heads for under $1000.

With just the powdered rods (which from what I hear are as good as some forged rods), and with the forged pistons, while running fairly low compression, it should last a while.

But correct me if I'm wrong.

I disagree about the nitrous only being good for spooling turbo's, but I do agree that turbo's are far better if you know how to make/set up your own system.

And actually, the 142/144 includes everything as a kit. for 2200 it comes with the manifolds bolt, and a bunch of other stuff.[quote]
It will not include a boost timing master $380, boost +no timing retard= melted pistons, or a wide band $250(not required but safer and easier than reading plugs). I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things. If I was you I'd just keep the 305 in it, spray the crap out of it. Then get the gm 290hp crate change cam for an extra 30hp or so and spray the crap outta that. Dude I know built a 383 for his T/A and sprayed the crap outta the 305 before replacing it, the 305 was faster.

Your the expert on boost, so I'll take your word for it.

I did look into spraying the 305, but the biggest shot it can take stock is a 125 shot, and even that's taking a big risk.

I'm probably going to build a 355 with forged pistions, if I end up getting a good job. Since I can build one from a $1200 shortblock for about $2500 and throw a 150 shot onto it for another $500 and it probably won't hurt it in the slightest.